Faster Way to Do Taping?
Is there a fast way to do taping? The way we are doing it, slapping mud on, and putting the tape on top, is taking forever. There has got to be a faster way!!!!!!!!!
Well since I have never mastered this skill, I spend too much time on it also. The Pros make short work of it because they are good. Knowing just how much to put on and then spreading it smooth to minimize sanding takes practice.
One thing I have found that helps, is I use the plastic mesh tape. It sticks to the wall and you can apply the mud just once over it, instead of the two steps. It works for this amateur
Taping is definitely something that gets quicker with more experience, there's no substitute for that. The mesh tape will help too but there are a couple of things to keep in mind when using this. It should be used with either a "setting" compound (preferred) or a "taping" compound. Trying to use it with regular drying compound can, in some cases cause problems. The setting and taping compound are stronger and the mesh tape is considered weaker than paper so thus the reason for using one with the other. Additionally, some folks will only use the mesh tape on the horizontal seams rather than butt seams and corners (because of the strength) A few things to consider....
Got a long story, but will make it short. My room has been drywalled, but now, I have to do the mudding. I've mudded before with duro bond, but never had to do seams. Please someone tell me. Do I tape each and ever seam before I mud?
Tape every seam. If you are using paper tape, then you apply the mud first. If you are using the plastic mesh stuff, they you apply the tape first, then mud over (and through) it.
First Time Taper is Puzzled
I'm adding a wall to my home for a bedroom.I'm wondering, the reason for the drywall tape.I am applying joint compound and not having very much luck with the tape or the compound being very smooth.
I think taping is a skill that takes a while. Until you get there, you are forced it seems to sand and recoat often. The tape is to make a stronger joint. The joint compound isn't plaster made to cover large areas alone, but rather to work with the tape to make a strong joint. Okay some hints from a NON-expert....
You may want to try the plastic mesh tape. It has been easier for me to use and apply. Also when applying compound... spread it thin.. only work with a little on your knife at a time.. and don't "work" it too much. Smooth it on nice and thin and move on, coming back after it dries.. to sand and correct the imperfections with a thinner coat next time.
Taping Outside Corners
What is the right technique for finishing an outside corner (when it joins three edges)with bull nose corner pieces?
I am not sure what you mean by three edges but outside corner should have corner bead applied which is metal strips attached then drywall mudded over.
You will find these at all home stores.
Paper or Mesh Tape?
Is it better to use mesh or paper tape where the wall meets the ceiling?
I believe the paper is better.. it is stronger.. but I still like the mesh just because it is easier for me to use. (You can get away with either.)
According to the mesh tape package, you shouldn't use pre-mixed drywall mud with it. Pre-mix is ok with paper, but you're supposed to mix your own compound from dry mix for mesh. Ok, instructions aside, I used mesh with pre-mix in my basement, walls AND corners, this summer and I haven't had any problems. Yet.
Drywall around Windows: Where to Put Joint?
When building a new house, where would it be the best area to put a joint on the drywall above the window frame, to prevent cracking.
(a) On a corner ?
(b) In the middle ?
(c) It doesn't matter !
(d) None the above !
Gee, I really think it doesn't matter. If your house settles, that drywall will crack on a seem somewhere.
But on a window, clearly in the middle on the header is a stable area. But if there was any settling, the crack would still find that seem to crack along. The drywall won't bend, and it won't keep the wall from moving either.
There for I am sticking to my first answer.
Drywall Technique for Seams
I am interested in getting that "seamless" look where two pieces of drywall meet. Suggested techniques from any experience hangers out there? Also, have a situation where two pieces butt on the NON-tapered edge of drywall sheet. Any suggestions for this seam?
Finally, have some existing finished seams that look bad-are already painted etc. Should I try to feather these out more, or do I need to cut out the seam and start over?
Here is some quick advice on drywall. You can have a "seamless" joint when you join two factory edges. The reason why is the two tapered "factory" edges allow you to fill in mud over the tape until the joint is flush with the bordering sheet rock. This usually can be done in 3 coats by a good drywaller. One thing that most people miss is there are two types of mud (joint compound) The first is "all purpose", which has more glue mixed with the gypsum and better adhesion, and finishing mud which is finer and you can apply more smoothly for coats two and three. The key words for any beginning drywaller are "less is more". Don't put the mud on too thick and always flex your knife and feather the edges so you don't leave "goobers" to dry on the wall. If you put too much on you will have to sand it off.
As far as butt seams go. You must create the illusions of flatness because you will never truly have a flat seam. I generally try to avoid butt seams on walls, (Ceilings are OK and usually unavoidable). If you must use them , then you can't have any paper from the sheet rock rolled up under your tape, it needs to go down very flat.
Be sure and use paper tape with the crease facing the wall. Take your 6" knife and squeegee all of the mud out from under the tape. Coat the tape the first time with all purpose mud then apply an 8" coat, a 12" coat, and then two 12" coats ,(one on either side of the seam). Sand lightly between coats and on the last two coats; make sure the mud is well thinned down until you can barely keep it on the knife. It is easier if you are an expert but if you use the right tools and a little perseverance, you can make yours look great! On your seams that are rough, if they need filling or only have some slight bumps you can coat right over the paint. If they are bad, you may need to sand them down first.
I'm no expert in drywall finishing but have done many jobs in my various homes. Dry wall finishing is an art. And I haven't mastered it yet and here's why. To properly tape/mud/sand joints and seams requires patience and proper application of tape and at least 2-3 coats of joint compound with light sanding between. A seamless joint is created NO MATTER WHERE your joint/hole tapered/non-tapered site exists IF you do the above. Drywall is great in that you can repair most damage by removing the existing damaged area, so that a new piece can be attached midway between two existing wall studs. Experiment your technique in an area not overly visible, and if satisfied complete the job. IF you are not sure, have it done by a professional finisher, after all you have to look at that wall for many years!
Drywall Screw Spacing
What is the recommended spacing for drywall screws?
They should be spaced about every 8 inches.
Hang Drywall Vertical or Horizontal?
I am looking for advice on the best or proper direction to install drywall (in a basement). The books I have read state to install it horizontally. In fact it even says to resist temptation to install vertically. It would seem to me easier to install vertically both from a physical installation and taping perspective. In talking to people who have done this before I get equal responses on the merits of up/down vs. left/right installation.
What is the consensus of this forum?
The books I've read imply that if the drywall is installed vertically, then when the taping is done you may notice more imperfections along the wall. According to the book the human eye detects the large vertical seam more so than the horizontal seam.
On the other hand by installing vertical then the factory edges are side by side, and in theory should be easier to tape properly.
Every professional drywall job I have ever seen has been done horizontally. Horizontal is not only more stable, it eliminates any humps or indentations caused by bowed studs.
The drywall guys I work with also tell me that finishing a horizontal wall is easier and cheaper. If you add up all the vertical joints on a wall 12 ft wide by 8 ft high (excluding corners) you will have 16 feet worth of vertical joints to tape and finish. If you hang it horizontal you have one 12 foot joint to finish.
Hanging vertically limits you to using 8 foot boards when 10s 12s or 14s can better cover the wall surface.
Drywall Prep for Mudding/Painting
How to prepare dry wall for mudding and painting after?
No prep for mudding, New drywall has to be primed before painting to get a good paint job.
I am putting up wallboard in the bathroom. I am using a glue called pl400. When I put the glue on the wall, it seems to dry before I can even put up the wallboard on the wall. When I do get it in place, I have to brace the "tar" out of it for about a day, or it will not stay in place. There must be a better way or a better glue to use.
Something about this just seems way to hard. any advice about how to install wallboard over an existing wall, (sheetrock with bad texture job from previous owner), would be appreciated and helpful.
I assume you mean drywall wallboard and not some other type of wallcovering like paneling or such.
Wallboard (drywall) is never put into place just using glue. Glue is used in addition to either sheetrock nails or sheetrock screws, and only as a supplement. The glue is fine, but you must also fasten each board. Same goes for bathroom paneling. Not only should you use paneling adhesive (best out of a can and applied with a notched trowel) but also paneling nails best fastened into each stud....
Skim CoatingI am trying to skim coat my walls and ceiling and find that it looks like I have allot more sanding then intended. I am using a all purpose compound and it seems to be drying to quick. Do you normally have to apply two coats? Any advice.
It would not be unusual for you to need two coats. As you get good at it, you could probably learn to get the thickness and smoothness in one coat, but that would take time. At this stage you may need to touch up areas. The all purpose compound will work, but don't try to work it too much. Apply just what you can work with at a time, and try to get it smoothed on in one stroke.
Skimming Plaster Texture
My house is 55 years old and I would like to update the texture on the walls. The house has plaster walls how would you go about skimming the walls with plaster i.e. tools and technique?
There are a lot of ways to surface them, depending on what you want. You can do hand trowelling or you can use the different tools and rollers you can buy.
I did my walls over plaster and drywall. I used drywall compound mixed 4 to 1 with acrylic latex paintable caulking to give it some strength and I mudded my walls by hand and trowel. I would not recommend this unless you have a good back, good shoulders or 2 years to finish....
There are also a lot of premixed products for texturing you can buy so check out Home Depot and such to see what you can do. A bit of research is all it takes.
If you would like to see my walls, I have linked you to pictures of my house. It was the paint, however, that made my walls the way I wanted them. If you have texture now you can even buy sponge rollers and smooth out the texture using premixed things like WALLTEX or other such surface textures.
Please tell me how to replace a piece of drywall (wallboard) about the size 5 feet long x 2 feet wide. The piece that needs to replace was kicked in starting at the baseboard and goes up about 5 feet toward the ceiling. A tenant recently moved out of my unit and this is the condition I found it in. Can I just cut a piece of drywall and nail it to the wall, then tape it and paint? Please tell me how to do the job myself. I need to know asap so I can rent out the unit.
The wall should be 1\2 inch sheetrock but some times 5\8 is used ,check that first, cut the old sheetrock past the hole to the next stud,now when you get to that stud only expose 1\2 of it [because sheetrock joins on the center of the studs] .Now cut out the broken dry wall all around and replace with new. If the hole is that big it may take two sheets. They come in 4x8, 4x10and4x12 feet sheets You will either nail or screw the drywall to the studs [there are special nails or screws for this job.) Be sure and recess the nails or screws into the drywall so that when you finish the drywall you will be able to cover them with joint compound.Now tape , finish and paint. It takes practice to finish drywall, but there is a sanding screen made so it can be sanded nice and smooth.
Drywalling in Older Home
Remodeling bathroom and need to know which way to dry wall,I've heard different theories.should I remove both lath and plaster and wall off of studs,or remove plaster and wall on lathes,house was built in 1913,I'm afraid studs aren't level with each other.
There is no RIGHT way.. when remodeling you sort of do what works, especially with an older home with uneven walls and floors. Easy often figures into the equation as well. So, if the studs aren't even, you can attach the sheetrock to the lathe. You could, even cover the walls with sheetrock right on top of the plaster if you wanted. (this would require extending all your door frames and window frames, and would keep you from insulating and rewiring).
Some additional hints. Be sure to use sheetrock (drywall.. same thing) designed for wet environments. It has a green tint to it and is made for bathrooms. Install a vapor barrier all around (including the ceiling if you are redoing that) Also, I always insulate the bathroom walls just to cut down on the sounds traveling through the walls... both the sound of running water.. and well you know...
Wall Removal then Drywall
I have a deep closet - I want to tear out part of the wall to open up 1/2 of the closet area (no wires) and then drywall it in - to make the bedroom a little larger - it would create a cove about 2 feet deep and 5 feet wide - Any suggestions?
Your idea sounds fine to me.. some things to consider. Be sure the wall is not a load bearing wall, perhaps not likely, but Important to know before you remove a piece. (to know ... if there is unfinished attic above, do the ceiling joists, end and begin above that wall?) You will need to patch and refinish the section of ceiling where the wall was, and patch the section of floor, add rug? add hardwood? You will need to cut into the existing wall, and remove the section of the wall you are getting rid of. Pulling out the studs, cutting the sill and top plates back to where the new wall will end. (A sawzall saw will help here.) Then you will resheetrock the walls edge and finish the edges with joint compound. The ceiling too, will need a sheetrock patch, and compound smoothes over.. and painted to match the rest of the ceiling. The floor, too will need to be patched with whatever flooring you have. Finally the floor trim molding you have should be cut to make the corner around the edges of the new wall sections. This is a job that is well with in a do-it-yourselfer, but it would certainly help if you have had some experience (or closeby help with it) in the types of jobs it will entail.
Do I have to remove the old plaster or can I use wallboard screws to put sheetrock over the existing plaster. All the studs have been located visually.
You can sheetrock right over the old plaster. Just recognize and plan for the extra width of the walls in the door jam and window framing areas.
Access Panel Options
I cut a hole in a bedroom wall (1/2" drywall) to access some plumbing under a roman tub in the adjoining bathroom. I don't want to repair the hole in case I need to access the plumbing again. I was wondering what material would make a good access panel and how to mount it.
Cut out the hole so it breaks over two studs. Then fill in the hole with new drywall but do not fasten it... Then screw some mitered casing over the hole to hold the drywall in place. Whenever you want to access, just unscrew the casing and there you go!
I've heard you can purchase corner supports for changing a square entryway so it's arched. Then you tape, spackle, sand and paint. Any idea on manufacturers?
The company that sells them is called Outwater Plastics and they are located in Wood Ridge, NJ.
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