Garage door openers.....closing problem
I'm having a problem with the closing of my garage door and suspect a problem with a couple wheels. Is there a trick to replacing these wheels without removing the entire door.
This may solve your problem. Sears sells replacement pulley "wheels" as they often wear down and rust over time. They are very simple to install. All you need to do is release the tension spring, take off the old pulley "wheel" and replace with the new one. Then reconnect the tension spring. Might as well do both sides during the same exercise.
I might be mistaken but those may not be the wheels he's referring to. If you mean one of the many small wheels on either side of the door, the ones through the hinges where the panels connect, you don't need to take springs off. Just remove the 7/16" nuts from the hinge and remove at an angle so the wheel and hinge come out easily, install the new wheel onto the hinge and reinstall and tighten nuts up. You're done.
This morning my wife backed the car out of the garage without opening up the door. The door is a traditional wood door with four panels across and 16 masonite squares up and down. The masonite panels do not seem to be damaged. However, the horizontal pieces on the bottom two panels are cracked. My question is can these horizontal pieces be replaced. If so, should I remove the springs (sides) and disassemble the door from the bottom up and replace the wood as I go? Is it worth trying to fix or is it cheaper to replace the entire door. The rest of the door (hardware, tracks,etc.) seems to be fine.
Many years ago... I drove my future wife's car into her father's garage door. Well I never lived that down. Especially since the door remained there for years. What he did to fix it was use a piece of angle iron bolted across the broken frame member. Maybe you can do that too. You can check on the price of just a door.. no hard ware.. and see what that costs.. Also.. check the ads.. you may find used or never used doors for sale. You can replace and work on just a row of panels if you remove the hardware. You will probably have to remove the springs.. or at least release the tension since the cable attaches to the bottom of the door.. and that is one of the broken panels, right?
You stole my thunder. I was going to suggest the same thing. My wife backed into ours years ago also. A couple pieces of angle, a handful of bolts, problem resolved. That was 13 years ago. I have the same door.
Garage door sideways when opening
The door is traditional wood, with springs on the side of the door. A few days ago, one of the springs snapped. I believe it is the original from 1961. I went to the store to find a replacement (for the four), and ended up trying different length, and finally, I got it to work with longer springs. However, now the door doesn't "balance" or stay in its position when operated by hand at a knee high. It wants to go up all the way. In addition, when I open it with the opener, it bounces at the sides.
You have to make sure the tension on the two sides are equal. So.. make sure the cable is as close to the same length as possible. Also.. since the door doesn't want to stay closed. relax the tension a little. You just have the springs too tight. The trouble when you buy different springs, is you may be having trouble getting the springs to lift the door when it is close to all the way up... if they are too long. and if the are too short, getting the door to keep from popping back open when the door is closed. Right?
Also.. while you are into the replacing. install a cable through the center of the springs.. fixed at either end. That way when a spring snaps, it doesn't go flying everywhere.
Stanley Garage door hinges and rollers needed
Do you know who supplies hinges and rollers for a thirty year old, four section, metal Stanley garage door? I'm told the door is out of production. Are the app. 4"x4" hinges and associated steel and plastic rollers available anywhere?
Is there a reason that other replacement hinges and rollers won't work? You may try them.. I don't know the specifics of your door, but you may be able to use ones off of a late model door.
Garage door clearances + joists...
I'm putting in a new garage door (the old one was a 'solid' wood door) into a low clearance opening. The problem is I'm about 2" short on clearance above the horizontal rails (which cross span the joists).
My question is can I cut into the 2X8 joists - about a 1"Wide X2"Deep rectangle - without any problems? or can I make the cut but reinforce the joists? (if so, how much support should I add)
The garage is a two stall (two singles) with a width between supports (concrete sides and I beam center) of about 13' per side.
It sounds like it would be much easier to cut 2" off the bottom of the tracks than to fool around with the structural support of the joists. The door will work just as well.
For the price most pro garage door installers take to hang new doors...(like about $100) It is hardly worth trying to do this one's self...
Garage doors-wood vs. metal
I would appreciate any information regarding the relative merits of wood versus metal garage doors.
There are NO merits of wood vs. metal doors...Metal have won the race...
What you typically want is an insulated aluminum or vinyl, which works equally well in a hot vs. cold climate. Avg. cost plus install in US is about $500 for single door plus labor.... Figure about $900 for door and install for a 16ft wide door. Add about $200 for opener...
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