Walkways Q's & A's

Sidewalks | Stone | Brick | Concrete

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Sidewalks Concrete Sidewalk I need to pour a concrete sidewalk. I am going to do it myself. I need to know the proper mixture (in parts) for the concrete.   Also, any suggestions concerning working the concrete would be appreciated. To mix one cubic foot of concrete you need 24 lb. of portland 52 lb. of sand and 78 lb. of crushed rock or coarse aggregate. For a sidewalk I would use 3/4" rock. Most sidewalks get a broom finish and this should be done after floating the concrete the stiffness of the broom and pressure applied will determine the roughness of the finish. Also proper curing is important up to 50%more strength can be developed by proper curing. Plastic over the concrete as soon as possible after finishing or keeping the slab damp for at least six days will help also leaving the forms on helps.

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Used Chicago brick walkway

I want to build a walkway in my garden, using used Chicago brick. I have no experience using this brick and would like to know where I should start and how much of a process it will be?

I personally do not like to use Chicago brick in situations where a large amount of moisture can be expected. They are a very porous/soft brick and soak water very quickly which is why they were originally used for backup brick inside the wall. If you want to make a walk way or path from them I recommend pouring concrete to keep them off the ground and pitching them to provide lots of drainage. I know that my not caring for the brick is because of the freeze thaw cycle in this area and they may work fine elsewhere.

 

INSTALLING A WALK

I am looking for info and or any diagrams on putting down a walk with pavers. I am trying to find how to make it with a curve leading to a front porch.

There are several home improvement books with diagrams for walks that you describe. Ortho's Home Improvement Encylopedia (problem solving from A to Z) is available on the internet by simply typing in the title the cost is around $30. I use a piece of 1/4" pressed board to form the radius and simply place the brick to the form. Another suggestion use a header course as a border to smooth the radius and simplify the cuts to turn the walk.

I would recommend visiting your local Home Depot or similar Hardware 'Mega-Stores'. They have the information you requested to set pavers for a walkway.

I am currently in the process of laying a walk-way and have the same challenge to find the best way to affect a bend in the walk. At this point, I see two primary options (of which there are many derivatives). First, you can run the pavers long-ways along the walkway and simply bend the angle of the pavers to match the arch or bend in the walkway. This will leave a (small) gap between the short-end of the bricks where you affect this bend that can be filled with sand. The other method is to cut the bricks at the point where your walk takes its bend to complete the transition between areas where the bricks can be laid in a standard pattern along the straight course of the walkway. In either case, prepare the ground and layout the bricks before you make cuts (and confirm your approach, etc.)

Again, I'd recommend a visit to the hardware store as they have layouts of different brick configurations / patters (e.g., herringbone, basketweave, running, etc.) along straight and winding walks.

 

Path

 Looking to build a loose gravel and slate path in my backyard by lifting some recently laid sod and pouring gravel. Also want to press it down to keep it in place?

Any ideas on materials, underlayments and how to would be appreciated

You should use some sort of border to keep the stones in place. Pressure treated 4x4's or 6x6's work well. Or you can pour a concrete curb. Or even use stones set in concrete. A suggestion here is to keep the final height of this at the height of your lawn so the mower can ride right on top of it to keep you from having to trim along it.

Under the gravel (and I assume you mean crushed stone?) you should put a landscaping cloth down. It is a black fine mesh that allows water to pass through but not weeds, grass etc.

Use a board to keep all the slates level... removing or adding material underneath to keep the tops of the slate even to prevent a tripping hazard.

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